Your browser isn't supported
It looks like you're using an old web browser. To get the most out of the site and to ensure guides display correctly, we suggest upgrading your browser now. Download the latest:

The MoneySaving Forum: join to chat & swap tips with other MoneySavers. Learn how in the Forum Introduction Guide

Cheap Home Insurance Tricks Cut your premium

New to the site? Quick message from Martin:

All the latest deals, guides and loopholes go in MoneySavingExpert's
free weekly email. Don't miss out - join the 10m who get it emailed!

FAQs | Unsubscribe 
Past Emails | Privacy

This guide is archived. The information in it is out of date – please do your own research before acting on any of the information in it. We’ve no plans to update this guide, we’ve left it here for reference only.

Whilst the four step plan will cut your costs to the bone, it's crucial to ensure you're getting the right cover in the first place. This additional guide should help you assess your home insurance needs and ensure they're focused on getting it as cheaply as possible.

This is for extra price-tweaking. For the full, powerful cost cutting system, read the Cheap Home Insurance guide.


Do you need home insurance?

Unlike Car Insurance there's no legal requirement to have home insurance, though some mortgage companies will make it a condition of the loan to have buildings cover. This raises the question do you need it at all?

Buildings cover is generally a good idea, as there's always the ‘loss of home' disaster scenario, though contents cover is a bit more wishy-washy. Ask yourself “what would I do if I lost everything?” How much of it would you actually want to replace? Having said that, done correctly contents cover can be very cheap, so the equation is pretty finely balanced. Still it may be worth self-insuring.

Self-insuring

Rather than paying £25 a month to an insurer, put the same amount in a High Interest Savings Account. Then if you have a claim, you'd simply take the cash from this account. If nothing happens you've still the cash to spend.

To make this slightly safer, do it in conjunction with a home insurance policy with a very high excess eg £2,000. This should make the policy very cheap and if a major catastrophe happens, you're covered.

Yet the problem with self-insuring is that while it works well after three or four years of not claiming, if there's a problem in the early days, you may not have enough cash to pay out.

What's the difference between building and contents cover?

They're two different insurance products, although many companies sell them combined. As a rough rule of thumb, imagine you could turn your house upside down. Everything that falls is covered by contents, whatever stays firm by buildings.

It's always important to ensure the ‘sum insured' is correct; this is the amount that you're covered for. Underinsuring can leave your claims unpaid, overinsure and you'll pay too much. Full details on how to assess the amount of cover you need in each case are in the Contents and Buildings sections below.

Is it worth combining buildings and content policies?

Combining policies doesn't always make it cheaper. If you've time, get quotes for standalone policies as well, especially if you're a high risk for one type of cover, eg burglary for contents or flooding for buildings. If the price variance isn't great, then plump for a combined policy as if a claim falls between the two stools, there's no ‘jurisdiction' argument and less admin.


Contents insurance

Underinsuring your contents can result in claims being seriously underpaid. For example, you’re insured for £20,000, but actually have £40,000 of contents, and then £5,000 worth is stolen. The insurer could then assess your property and only pay out in proportion to your cover, meaning you'll just get £2,500 back.

How to assess the value of your contents

To work out the correct amount, walk from room to room, noting down what everything would cost on a new-for-old basis, including fittings. It soon adds up. There are a number of useful contents calculators available but our favourite ones, which you can access for free, are via Legal & General, Direct Line and the AA.

Alternatively ‘bedroom-rated' policies mean your sum assured is automatically allocated depending on your location and the number of bedrooms. It's convenient, but doesn't guarantee the correct cover. There are also a few ‘unlimited sum insured' policies. These can be good value for those with contents worth over £50,000, as the price is roughly based on the average £35,000 sum insured (though those with very high contents values won't be allowed cover).

Very expensive individual goods like antiques and paintings should be professionally valued and listed separately. Watch out - their value often increases over time, so either re-assess or get a policy where the ‘sum insured' rises annually.

Types of cover

Once you've defined the cover level, make sure you're comparing the price like for like.

  • New for old. Here the payout should be for the original price of the items, though for clothing there's usually a wear and tear deduction.
  • Indemnity cover. Here the broker only pays out the current value of your possessions so, while it's cheaper, it can leave you in the lurch.
  • Add-on cover. There are various types. ‘All risks' includes property taken outside your home like wallets or jewellery; legal cover pays for court costs.

Buildings insurance

This covers the house's structure and all permanent fixtures and fittings against floods, storm, fire, explosions, malicious damage and other perils.

Who needs it?

If you're renting a property, your landlord should have buildings insurance. If you have a leasehold housing agreement, then the freeholder will usually have the buildings insurance policy which you'll pay for via the ‘ground rent'. It's always worth checking this though.

Thus it's freehold homeowners who generally need buildings cover.

Most people are substantially overpaying

Buildings insurance is usually a mortgage requirement, and the mortgage provider usually makes a very pretty extra penny by flogging you a policy. Yet there's no need to get the insurance with your mortgage company, and usually it's substantially cheaper if you go elsewhere.

What to cover?

A common mistake is to cover the house's market value (the amount it could be sold for), meaning many people are over-insured and paying way too much.

Actually, the amount you cover (again called the ‘sum insured') should be the ‘rebuild value'; simply the cost of rebuilding the property if it were knocked down. Therefore location is less important than the value of materials, labour and architects' fees. However, it's important any building policy covers the cost of an alternative residence for you if your home were being rebuilt.

Commissioning a survey is the most reliable method to establish the rebuild value, but will be expensive unless you're getting one anyway when buying a new home. A less accurate, but quicker, option is ABI's calculator, or simply asking an insurer to give you a rough value based on standard assumptions.


Reduce the risk

All insurance policy prices are based on risk assessments, so to cut the cost, cut the risk. Here are some of the measures you can take. It's important to remember adding security can cost more than simply paying higher premiums, so there is a balance of cost and safety to be struck.

Extra tricks to cut the cost of your premium
Premium decrease*
Approved locks on all windows and doors. Then ensure they stay locked. Otherwise it may invalidate your claim, even if that isn't the cause of the problem.
5%
Approved alarm. Fitting NACOSS standard burglar alarms reduces premiums; however these are expensive alarms which require an annual check-up.
7.5%
Increased excess. You will usually have to pay the first £50 of any claim, but the more you're willing to pay, the lower your premium.
Depends on excess level related to sum insured size
Neighbourhood watch. Some insurers offer discounts if you live in a neighbourhood watch area; however this is becoming less common, as lower premiums already factor in the reduced risk of theft.
1%
No claims. Insurers factor in your claims history, so a record of no previous claims will reduce your premium substantially. When you've a claim, consider whether it's actually worth doing, as it may be cheaper to pay it yourself to avoid an increase in the policy cost.

However it's important to understand that having a no claims bonus is separate from the actual cost of the policy. So even if you don't claim, the policy cost may rise if you have a burglary, as if you report it (you're supposed to) the insurer may assess you as a higher risk of future claims.

20%
Age. The older you are, the less likely you are to make a claim, which makes premiums lower. However, a ‘special price' for older customers doesn't mean it won't be broken by a non-special quote from somewhere else. All insurers use risk based price assessments so this is factored in anyway.
10%
Special precautions. Notify insurers about any special safety precautions for your valuables, such as a home safe.
N/A
Lifestyle. Having a dog / being teetotal / not smoking are all used by some insurers to reduce premiums. If this applies to you it's worth asking insurers whether it impacts their pricing.
N/A
New may be better than renewal. Occasionally applying to your existing insurer as a new customer produces a cheaper price than its renewal quote. It's ridiculous, but it's because companies fight for new business and take renewals for granted.
* Rough estimate, discounts vary widely with each insurer.

Back to original guide: Cheapest Home Insurance



Updates to home insurance will be in the free weekly Money Tips email
Important! Don't miss any guides, deals, vouchers & loopholes
Get MoneySavingExpert's free, spam-free weekly email


Join in the Forum Discussion:
Cheap Home Insurance Tricks
If you haven't already

What the * means above

If a link has a * by it, that means it is an affiliated link and therefore it helps MoneySavingExpert stay free to use, as it is tracked to us. If you go through it, it can sometimes result in a payment to the site. It's worth noting this means the third party used may be named on any credit agreements.

You shouldn’t notice any difference and the link will never negatively impact the product. Plus the editorial line (the things we write) is NEVER impacted by these links. We aim to look at all available products. If it isn't possible to get an affiliate link for the top deal, it is still included in exactly the same way, just with a non-paying link. For more details, read How This Site Is Financed.

Duplicate links of the * links above for the sake of transparency, but this version doesn't help MoneySavingExpert.com:

Important FCA Note. Referring people to insurers or insurance intermediaries can in some circumstances constitute an FCA regulated activity. MoneySavingExpert.com Limited ("MSE") is part of the MoneySupermarket.com Group PLC ("MSM").

While this does not affect any content on our site, technically it means that pages with links which take you to the sites of insurers or insurance intermediaries are hosted by MSE on behalf of MSM.

MSM is an appointed representative of MoneySupermarket.com Financial Group Limited ("MSFG") which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FCA FRN: 303190). The registered office address of both MSM and MSFG is MoneySupermarket House, St. David's Park, Ewloe, Chester CH5 3UZ.

Cheap Travel Money

Find the best online rate for holiday cash with MSE's TravelMoneyMax.

Find the best online rate for your holiday cash with MoneySavingExpert's TravelMoneyMax.