Motorbike, scooter and moped cover can be hard to find cheap, as many big names steer clear. Yet it's still possible to get scores of quotes in minutes, saving you 100s.
Step-by-step
Motoring MoneySaving Checklist
Step 1: Getting the right cover
Insurance premiums (the payments you make to insurers) depend on three things:
By reducing insurers' perception of your risk, you can reduce the price you'll pay.
Bike insurance rates are set by actuaries, whose job is to calculate risk. Each insurer's price depends on two things; their underwriters' assessment of your particular risk focus, and then their own pricing model which dictates what customers they want to attract. See the following for ways to reduce your risk.
The older you are, the cheaper it costs
The cost of insurance jumps for those under 30, and even more for those 21 or under. There's not much you can do about your age. But generally, cheaper Third Party insurance is still worth a look for younger riders. Remember this only pays for damage to other people's bikes or proerty, and not yours.
Don't overestimate your mileage
While many riders don't use their motorbike as their main form of transport, they use their car mileage to estimate the bike mileage. Often, it's far less. As you pay less if you drive less, this mistake can lead to you paying too much.
Can you park it in the hallway?
Security is one of the biggest problems for motorbike owners, and less secure bikes are more expensive to insure. Ideally keep it inside the house(!) or if not, in a locked garage. If you can't do this, some insurers won't cover you for theft.
If it has to stay outside, use an insurer-approved anchor lock or security device. This will help reduce the quote, though they can be expensive and it may take a while for reduced premiums to cancel out the cost of the lock.
The more points on your licence, the higher the cost. While speeding points remain on your licence for four years, insurers usually check for convictions during the last five before they are removed from your record.
DO work out how much you'd really claim for
It's worth considering going for a policy with a higher excess (the amount of any claim you need to pay yourself). Many people will find claiming for less than 500 of damage both increases the future cost of insurance and can invalidate no-claims bonuses, meaning it's not always worth making a claim.
So why pay extra for a lower excess? A few policies will substantially reduce premiums for a 1,000 excess, so try this when getting quotes. The downside of this is if you have a bigger claim you'll have to shell out more, so take this into account.
You'll pay extra to cover helmets and other gear
It's unlikely that damage to your riding helmet and specialist clothing will be covered as standard though more and more insurers are giving the option to include these as at an optional extra cost.
Consider 'temporary cover' if you don't use bike all year round
For some, jumping on the saddle is a summer-only activity. If your bike goes into winter hibernation, take a look at cheaper temporary insurance that just lasts six months.
There are two things to be aware of though.
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You won't build up a no-claims bonus. This will mean you won't be eligible for no-claims discounts in future years.
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When not insured, you must get SORN. Rules came into force in 2011 saying all vehicles must either be insured - even if no one rides them - or you must get a a SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification). See DirectGov for how to do this.
DONT think you'll pay the same by instalments - most charge big interest!
Whoever you insure with, if it gives an option to 'pay monthly', be careful. What usually happens is the insurer actually loans you the annual cost and charges you interest for the privilege.
While occasional promotions are interest-free, usually the interest rates are hideous. So either pay it off in full, or if you can't afford it in one go it's actually cheaper to pay with a 0% credit card for spending and make the same repayments to that.
DO tell insurers about changes and special circumstances
If you haven't got normal circumstances, eg, you've made a claim in the past few years, have a modified bike or expect to ride 100,000s of miles a year, tell the insurer. If you don't and then try to claim, even for an unrelated issue, your whole policy may be invalid.
Plus you should also tell your insurer about any changes. This is crucial as it reduces potential problems in the event of a claim, even if it's just your address. Trying to get insurance after you've had a policy cancelled due to a fraudulent claim is very difficult, very expensive and will follow you for the rest of your life.
A change in circumstances includes moving jobs, as insurers believe this can affect your risk. Scandalously, the unemployed often (though not always) pay higher rates for insurance, so tell your provider if you're out of work but also do the full checks below to see where you can get the cheapest cover.
You may also save on insurance if you're in a more stable relationship, ie, if you're living with a partner rather than listed as single.
DON'T lie when getting a quote
With insurance, remember - the golden rule is:
If you've read these tips and thought, it's easy to lie about this, then of course you're right. Yet lying on your insurance form is fraud. It can lead to your insurance being invalidated and, in the worst case, a criminal prosecution for driving without insurance. Don't do it.
Step 2: Find the best bike quote
As insurance prices depend on an individuals unique circumstances, there's never one 'cheapest' provider. The key is to use screenscraping websites to get the most quotes in the shortest amount of time. Here, you enter your details and their software automatically fills in the required info at a host of broker's and insurer's websites, grabbing you a quote.
If you are a fair-weather rider and only use your bike in lighter, brighter months of extra daylight, also get a quote for temporary insurance.
Compare in the following order
This guide has recently been updated with a new order, and information, but we'd love your feedback on if it works for you, if there's anything you would change, or feel we have missed.
Always double check your results. Read What to check
Your data is being given to insurers. Read What insurers may do
1. GoCompare
Get quotes from 36 brokers
Obtaining a quotation took approximately six minutes, but the excesses were considerably lower across its panel.
It clearly states through a tick and cross system if additional cover is provided. The process of editing the quotations is very limited if you want to compare against various covers.
2. The Bike Insurer
Quotes from 35 brokers
The process took no more than five minutes from start to finish. Results are available for all three levels of cover by clicking on a tab. The edit option is simple and efficient. Special offers are clearly laid out. Unfortunately, the voluntary excess defaulted to 500.
TescoCompare also uses The Bike Insurer comparison site to provide quotations.
3. Confused.com
Quotes from 31 brokers and 2 direct insurers
The process took three minutes with a simple edit option. You are also able to view the premiums for each of the cover levels by clicking on a drop down box. The voluntary excess defaulted to a high 500, though.
If you buy via Confused.com* before 30 June 2012, you are able to claim 1,000 Nectar points.
4. MoneySupermarket
Can get quotes from 31 brokers and 1 insurer
The five-minute process returned a clear result, and lets you alternate between cover levels by using a drop-down box.
Additional costs are also clearly displayed should you want to extend the cover to add additional benefits normally excluded.
5. The pick of the rest
You may think this is everyone but not quite. A couple of insurers aren't included on comparisons and are worth checking separately to give that final push. So if you have a few minutes to spare, try Aviva and broker Carole Nash.
If you are desparate to squeeze the pennies off, there are also a few more comparisons to try: Beatthatquote*, QuoteZone*, CompareTheMarket*, Tiger.co.uk* and MCNcompare* (which currently has an offer for a free biking magazine when you get a quote).
Step 3: Check out special policies
Once you've tried the comparison sites, it's worth trying these extra ways to see if they undercut your best price.
Temporary insurance
For some, jumping on the saddle is a summer-only activity. If your bike goes into winter hibernation, take a look at cheaper temporary insurance that just lasts six months.
There are two things to be aware of, though.
-
You won't build up a no-claims bonus. This will mean you won't be eligible for no-claims discounts in future years.
-
When not insured, you must get SORN. Rules came in to force in 2011 saying all vehicles must either be insured - even if no one rides them - or you must get a a SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification). See DirectGov for how to do this.
The top short-term solution
eBike: If you need short term cover, eBike* offers a Pay As You Go policy where you can buy cover one month at a time and there are no cancellation charges. There is, however, a 6 per month admin charge which makes the cover more expensive than a standard policy if you'll need insurance for more than about eight months a year.
You need to be realistic, though. Six months of cover won't simply be half the cost of twelve. You will pay proportionally extra to save yourself needing to hand over the full whack.
Get a 'six-wheel' policy
If your bike isn't your only form of transport, and you use a car too, get a quote for a policy that covers both. The only 'six-wheel' policy we have found is from Carole Nash.
Though having both vehicles on one policy may be convenient, check that it's actually worth it. Get a 'six-wheel' quote, then total up individual ones for your bike, using the comaprisons above, and your car, using our Cheap Car Insurance guide.
Speak to a broker
Brokers and screenscrapers may seem like they're doing a similar job, as each search a number of different insurers. But they're radically different beasts. A good analogy for this is to compare it to searching for the cheapest loaf of bread.
Individual insurers are like bakers, your choice is simply to buy the cheapest loaf that suits.
Brokers are like supermarkets. They stock a range of bakers' loaves and the price charged depends on their relationships with suppliers.
Screenscrapers are like sending someone round supermarkets and bakers to note all their prices.
So, with your tastebuds whet, we'll get to the point. To really hone the price to the nth degree, it is worth picking up the phone and calling a broker. Here's a selection: Adrian Flux, Endsleigh*, Footman James or search on the British Insurance Brokers Association website for a local broker.
Special Deals
Swinton Bikes: Buy a Swinton Bikes* policy by 31 Dec 2013 (using the code MBWTDR274), and you will get 30 cashback. In addition to this, if you purchase the cover online, you will get a 25% discount.
Be Wiser: Insurance broker Be Wiser* has a number of incentives to get you on board with them. If you buy from them, you will automatically get free helmet and leathers cover (up to 1,000), legal protection service, RAC roadside assistance (worth 29.99) and personal accident cover (up to 10,000).
MCE Insurance: MCE Insurance* is also offering free RAC roadside assistance (worth 29.99), a courtesy bike because of an insurance claim, personal injury cover (up to 1,000) and helmet & leathers cover (up to 500). Also, if you buy online, you will receive a30% discount.
Once you've found the cheapest
Once you've found the cheapest from the screenscrapers, there are two important checks to make:
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Double-check the quotes
Click through to the insurance provider's own website to double-check the quotes, as to speed up searches some comparison sites make a few assumptions.
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Examine the policy's coverage
Is the policy suitable for you? If you want "pillion cover", is it included? Plus while you're there, it's worth playing with the policy details to see if you can slim the price down. Look at the excess, and if extra security will help to drive the cost down.
Step 4: Grab cashback and haggle
By now you'll know the cheapest available provider. But you may be able to cut the cost even further.
Try Cashback websites
Once you know who your cheapest provider is, you need to check there aren't any hidden cashback deals, as these can be as high as 100. If your second or third cheapest quotes weren't too much more expensive see if cashback's available for them too, and find the overall winner.
These sites carry paid links from some retailers and financial services providers. In other words if you click through them and get a product they get paid. They then give you some of this cash which means you get the same product, but a cut of its revenue.
Don't choose based only on cashback, see it as a bonus once you've picked the right cover...
Those new to cashback sites should ensure they read the Top Cashback Sites guide for pros and cons before using them.
Otherwise use the Cashback Sites Maximiser tool to find the highest payer for each insurer.
Things you need to know before doing this...
- Never count the cash as yours until it's in your bank account. This cashback is never 100% guaranteed, there can be issues with tracking and allocating the payment, plus many cashback sites are small companies with limited backing, and you've no protection if anything happens to them.
- Withdraw the cashback as soon as you're allowed. Money held in your cashback site account has no protection at all if that company went bust, so always withdraw it as soon as you're eligible.
- Clear your cookies. While it shouldn't be a problem, if you've used comparison sites beforehand, there is a minor risk that the cashback may not track due to cookies - so its good practice to clear those first (read About Cookies).
Haggle on your insurance
The insurance market is very competitive and companies are desperate to retain business. So once you've got your overall cheapest price, get on the phone and try to haggle. There's often price flexibility, but be fully armed with the screenscrapers' cheapest quotes and any available cashback first.
The first port of call should be your existing insurer. If it can beat or even match the best quote it saves the hassle of switching policy. If that doesn't work and you're still in the mood, take it to a broker. For more haggling tips read the full Haggle On The High Street guide.
What if my insurer goes bust?
The economic times we live in mean you never know which company might be the next to have problems. Fortunately, insurance providers are covered by the government-backed Financial Services Compensation Scheme, meaning if they go into default, you're protected.
The FSCS will usually try to find another provider to take over your policy, or issue a substitute policy. However, if you have any ongoing claims, or need to make a claim before a new insurer is found, the FSCS should ensure these are covered. For full details, read the insurance section of the Savings Safety guide.
Step 5: Remember next year
Providing you drive well and don't have any accidents, your insurance premium should get cheaper after the first year. However, don't automatically stick with the same provider - it may not still be the cheapest.
Apply for cover from your existing insurer as a new customer and its likely you'll be given a cheaper price. This is because insurers, like any company, will happily profit from apathy if they can.
Insurers must send out renewal notifications at least 28 days before renewa. This doesn't leave much time, and you can end up rushing to find a cheaper price.
To avoid being forced to decide quickly, put a warning in your diary six weeks before your renewal date, so there's plenty of time to sort out a new provider. Alternatively use the free Tart Alert, which sends a reminder text or email.
Hungryhouse.co.uk 25% off
Debenhams up to 25% off
Oasis 20% off + free delivery
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