Martin Lewis

Cut the cost of existing loans?
 

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It's a contemptuous disgrace; loan companies urge you to switch your debts to them, because their rate beats your current one. Yet often, moving to a lower interest loan costs you more. This Deal is find out when it's worth switching, possibly saving you hundreds.



What are the problems with switching?
When's it worth shifting a loan?
What are the cheapest loans to switch to?
The Saving
Related Articles/Discuss

 

Cut the cost of expensive loans

Other Loan Articles:
Cheap Loans, Short Term LoansPlastic Loans, Cheap Loan Insurance, Reclaim Loan Insurance 
What are the problems with switching?

 


Switching loans means paying off your existing lender with money from the new loan, yet loans are inflexible beasts usually designed to be repaid over the full loan term. Attempt to repay early and often you're hit by two types of serious charges.

  • Rule of 78

    A hidden penalty; most lenders use ‘Rule of 78' interest calculations. This is a hideously complicated formula which artificially allocates early years' repayments towards paying off the interest, so they hardly decrease the amount you owe.

    This means try and pay off the loan in full early and there's much more left than you think (see a
    Rule of 78 Technical Explanation). The earlier you repay, the bigger the problem.

    New rules have stopped Rule of 78 for loans taken out since June 2005, yet there's no respite for loans taken out prior to that.


  • Early Repayment Penalties

    These are effectively fines of one or two months' worth of interest for not repaying over the full term. Worse still, the actual interest amount usually depends on a Rule of 78 calculation too, so the earlier you repay the bigger the penalty.


Payment Protection Insurance



Payment protection insurance (PPI) bought to cover your repayments in the event of accident, sickness or unemployment is expensive and usually hugely profitable for lenders, often more so than the loan itself.

Try and repay loans with PPI early and the sums would burn out most calculators, as often they assume you borrowed the cost of the whole insurance up front and then use Rule of 78 to work out what you pay. This means repay an insured loan early and it's often possible you can owe more than you borrowed.

Some lenders allow you to cancel the PPI separately. If yours will, it's worth considering taking out a separate PPI policy (see Loan Insurance Cost Cutting).


When is it worth shifting?

 


As a very rough rule of thumb, it's always worth investigating switching if you can decrease the interest rate by more than 2%, though often savings are available for smaller rate reductions too. To work out whether you'll save you need to ask your current lender two questions:


A. Get it to confirm your repayments and ask how many remain.

Multiply the two together and this is the cost of sticking with your existing lender. E.g. 48 months at £150 equals £7,200.

B. Ask how much it costs, including penalties, to repay the loan in full immediately.

Use this as the base amount needed if you're switching. Take it to the new lender and ask for a quote over the same time period (or less if you can afford to repay quicker).

E.g. If it'd cost £6,350 to repay now, borrowing that over 48 months at 6% would cost £149 a month, £7,160 in total.

Then quite simply go for whichever option is cheapest in your situation (in the above example, it makes little difference either way).

If I come into a windfall, should I pay the loan off?

One of my MoneySaving Rules of Thumb is that you should always pay off any debts you have before stashing any money in savings. Yet due to the repayment penalties you won't necessarily be financially better off than just sticking it in a high interest account and drip feeding loan payments out of there.

For example. If the ‘total repayment' figure of your loan was £5,000 yet to keep repaying it each month was £5,100, then you only gain £100 by paying it off now, and stashing that in a top savings account (See Instant Access Savings) could earn you more. Then again the convenience and ease of ‘the debt being gone' could just overbalance the financial issues!

Which loan should I switch to?

It's simply a case of finding the loan with the lowest APR (Annual Percentage Rate) of interest. The rate you get depends on the amount you borrow, yet a cheap rate isn't a reason to borrow more; never get a loan for more than you need and can afford to pay back.

  • Borrowing over £15,000 - 6.8%. AA offers a rate of 6.8% for loans from £15k - £25k.
  • Borrowing from £7,000 to £14,999 - 6.5%. Sainbury's offers a rate of 6.5% for loans over £7k.
  • Borrowing over £5,000 - 6.7%. Moneyback offers 6.7% for loans from £5k.
  • Borrowing over £4,000 - 6.8%. Barclaycard offers a rate of 6.8% if you're borrowing over £4k.
  • Borrowing over £1,000 - 7.9%. Abbey* has a rate of 7.9% on amounts over £1k
Call them up

These are all a ‘typical rates' so by law only 66% of those accepted need actually be given the low rate, others have to pay more.


One thing customers need to be aware of when taking any loan is the 'money delivery charge'. Often there is an automatic 'express delivery' setting which gets you the money quicker. For example, Northern Rock's costs £45 and is its default setting. To avoid this, simply tell them you don't want it when setting up the loan and save the extra cash (though it will take about 4 days longer to get you the money).

For more details on how to choose a new loan read the Cheapest Personal Loans article.

 

External Daily Updated Loans Best Buys

 


What if rates change?
This article is updated weekly, however you may want to check the daily updated best buy tables from a couple of external sources.

Anything to watch? Yes. Moneysupermarket and Uswitch are profit-driven services, that list most but not all best buys depending on commercial relationships. Plus they give simple lists of top rates, so ensure you check the possible pitfalls in this article for yourself first.

By far the best practice is to try the products listed in the article before using these.

Uninsured Loans (Moneysupermarket)

GO

External Price Comparisons*

Loans with Insurance (Uswitch)

GO

 




There is a much cheaper option....

But this one's only for Advanced MoneySavers. For those with a decent credit score the cheapest route by far is to actually cleverly use credit cards to repay the loan, using my Cut Price Plastic Personal Loans system. This allows borrowing at 3.9%, but only for those willing to play the system.

To work out the saving here is also much more difficult. Setting up a spreadsheet to calculate it is by far the best way. If that's too difficult the alternative is simply do the calculation based on the cheapest normal loan e.g. 6.3% and if that will save you money then you are assured that the even cheaper ‘plastic' solution will save you even more.


Size of the saving


Imagine you took out an uninsured branch loan at 12.9% two years ago, for £5,000 paid over 5 years .To repay the loan in full now, three years early, would cost £3,470; while continuing to repay it, at £113 a month over 36 months, would be a total of £4,080. Borrow £3,470 at 5.7% to pay off the original loan over the same time period though and the monthly repayments would be £105 a month or £3,785, a saving of £295.

Do note, even though the original loan was 12.9%, to make any saving you'd need to borrow a loan costing less than 9.5% - over 3% less.

This is why it's crucial to pick the right loan in the first place (see
Cheapest Personal Loans article) rather than try and switch later. Even if cheaper loans are available it won't always save you money.


The position two years after borrowing £5,000 at 12.9% for 5 years

 


Monthly Repayment

Remaining Repayments

Total Repayments

Saving

Stick with NatWest at 12.9%

£113

36

£4,080

-

Borrow £3,470 at 6.8% to pay Natwest off in full

£107

36

£3,835

£245

 


To ensure you stay up to date, all changes will be in

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