Getting ready to remortgage

Sort your credit report, minimise costs & find top deals

Remortgaging – getting accepted for a new mortgage from a different lender – requires effort on your part, especially these days when mortgage interest rates are high. If you need a new mortgage deal then these tips could help you save £1,000s in the long run...

Need a new mortgage? Getting a new deal from a different lender (remortgaging) isn't your only option. You can also get a new deal from your current lender – this is called a product transfer.

  1. Start the mortgage-switching process six months before your current deal ends to avoid your lender's SVR

    If your mortgage's initial term is ending soon, beware. You're usually bumped to lenders' far more expensive standard variable rates, currently around 7.5% to 8.5%. 

    It's always best to lock in a new mortgage to start as soon as your previous deal ends. Yet in volatile mortgage markets like today's, with rates going up and down in response to economic conditions, you don't know whether today's rate will be beaten by rates available in a couple of months' time. So, you need to play the field...

    Get an 'insurance rate' to hedge against future rate changes

    The vast majority of lenders let you lock in a new mortgage deal up to six months before you need it to start. So in April even if your deal expires in August, you could lock in April's rate for the future and continue to the end of your term with your current mortgage provider. If rates rise, you've a cheaper deal locked in. If rates fall, it's likely you can ditch the mortgage you secured in April, and get one at a lower rate closer to when you need it. 

    You can either do this with your existing lender (known as a product transfer) or you can remortgage to a new lender. See our Product transfers guide for full details on how to compare the two options.

    Locking in a product transfer

    Lenders often allow you to do this up to six months before your current mortgage ends. It's a simple process if you're not changing the term or borrowing more. 

    Upfront fees to do a product transfer aren't common, but do check if you're paying one, as it's unlikely you'll get this back down the line if you decide not to take the mortgage.

    Our Mortgage Best Buys comparison tool has a function which allows you see product transfer deals from your existing lender. Or you can use its app or see its website for more info. 

    Remortgaging to a new lender

    Again, you'll usually be able to do this up to six months in advance. But the main risk with a new lender is if you have to pay valuation, arrangement or legal fees up front to lock in your new deal – ask your broker or lender if any of these are due upfront as you wouldn't necessarily get them back if you later ditched the deal.

    We've more information on these fees in the quick questions below. 

    Could I lose out financially if I ditch the deal later?

    The main risk is if better deals emerge in the meantime, you'd have been better off to wait. If so, the cost to you is that you'd lose any fees paid upfront if you dump the reserved deal for a new one (that's if you were charged any fees in the first place). Though the counter to this is that if rates rise, you're quids in, because you've locked yourself in to a good deal. 

    Yet if you have shelled out upfront, and you don't end up taking out the new mortgage, or you find the rates improve in the intervening months, it would have been beneficial to have waited rather than pay to secure a rate in advance. In these cases, you likely need to see the money paid upfront almost as 'insurance' against rising rates.

    Plus if you do decide to ditch your locked-in rate for a new deal, you may have to pay a new tranche of fees, so be prepared for that.

    Use a broker to help you figure out if this is right for you

    Regardless of whether rates are low or high, many factors affect what's YOUR best. So bash all your info into our Mortgage Best Buys comparison tool to first get a benchmark for your top deal.

    But we suggest that you use a broker to proceed any further, unless you're a mortgage expert. See the top mortgage brokers section for help finding a good one.

    We say this because:

    • These deals can be hard to find as lenders often vary how long you can lock in a rate for, even within their own range. Brokers are likely to know which you can hold for months.

    • It's best to do this on a mortgage with little or no upfront cost to you before the mortgage completes. Brokers will know more about which mortgages this applies to.

    • There are risks and different outcomes to consider. A broker can advise you on these.

    • Brokers have info that is often difficult to find, for example, lenders' credit and affordability criteria. So a good broker can ease acceptance by matching you to the right deal.

    Quick questions

    • What fees could I have to pay upfront?

      It's generally arrangement, legal, valuation and broker fees (and to a much lesser extent, booking fees) – though often you can actually get away without having to pay any of these fees up front.

      The level of fees and whether you're contracted to pay them depends on the deal, and there are a myriad of scenarios:

      • Mortgage product / arrangement fee. Some lenders charge a lot (£1,500ish); some nothing. Where there is a fee, in most cases you won't have to pay it until mortgage completion, so it shouldn't pose a risk to locking a rate in. Within many lenders' product ranges, think of the relationship between the rate and fee as a set of weighing scales. The higher the rate, the lower the fee, and vice versa. As long as it's still a good deal, for some it may be best to grab a lower fee with a higher rate (and that makes this trick less risky anyway).

      • Legal and valuation fees. Many lenders throw these in free on remortgages, while they're also uncommon with product transfers. If not, they can hit £1,000+, but it often depends on your home's value.

      • Broker fees. If you use a broker, some charge a fee, but if you are using a fee-charging broker, sometimes you only pay this when you complete (in other words, when you actually take the new mortgage). In that scenario, there's no risk of losing this fee if you pull out before completion.

      • Booking fee. Very rare these days, but some lenders could potentially charge a fee to secure a fixed-rate, tracker or discount deal – it can also be called an 'application fee' or a 'reservation fee'. Where your lender does charge one, it's unlikely to cost more than £100 to £250. This'll need to be paid on application and will probably be non-refundable, so you'll likely lose this money if you book in a deal in advance but ditch it later for a different one.

      See our Mortgage fees guide for more on how these fees work.

    • I've locked in a deal early – could the lender back out before it actually starts?

      Normally where you've locked in a remortgage rate early with a new lender, this'll be a binding offer, meaning you've got real security. It would be "unusual" for the lender to back out, one mortgage broker told us.

      Technically it is still possible for the lender to renege on a remortgage deal (meaning you'd have to start the mortgage-switching process again) before it starts. However, you should only worry about this happening if you suspect the lender will start having serious doubts about your affordability later down the line.

      Lenders tend to carry out additional/final affordability checks on a borrower just before a mortgage deal actually commences (known as 'completion'). If your financial circumstances have substantially changed between the time you locked in the rate initially and the deal completing – maybe you've lost your job, or the lender's discovered you provided false information – it's possible the lender wouldn't let you proceed on the agreed rate.

      • What if house prices fall? Can I still keep the rate I've secured? Yes, once you're accepted, the lender is committed to that rate (as long as the valuation report hasn't expired) unless you decide you don't want it.

      • What if I lose my job or my salary drops after the mortgage offer but before I take the cash? Can the lender pull the offer? You're obliged to tell the lender if that happens before it releases any cash to you. However, it can also pull the mortgage offer.

      • What about other changes of circumstances, such as getting divorced? As above, you're obliged to inform the lender, and depending on circumstances it may choose to pull its offer.

      • Does this affect my credit history? Every time you apply for a mortgage there'll be an application search of your credit report. So if you dump one and make another application with a different lender, that can have a minor impact on your credit history. See full info on the impact of mortgage applications on your credit history.

      • If you dump your reserved mortgage, try to do it at least three weeks before your current mortgage is up. Some lenders won't let you ditch a rate if you're too near to the date of mortgage completion. Plus, being quick saves you going on to what may be an expensive standard variable rate.
  2. Check your credit report BEFORE lenders do

    You need to convince lenders that you've got the financial discipline required to pay back a remortgage deal. One way they investigate this is by searching your credit report(s) to find out if you've a good repayment history – the main credit reference agencies who provide your report being Experian, Equifax and TransUnion.

    A credit report lists your history with credit cards, loans, overdrafts, mortgages, mobile phone contracts, as well as with some utility usage and – increasingly – buy now, pay later. This history covers all accounts that have been open at any point over the past six years.

    It used to be that you'd have to pay to take a look at your own credit report, though these days you can get them all for free. It is worth checking all three main credit reports, as you don't know which one(s) a future mortgage lender will check, so ensure they're all up to scratch. For the full how-to, see our Check your credit report for free guide.

    Once you've checked your credit report, have a read of our Improve your credit report guide to see the best ways of polishing your file before you apply for any credit.

    Quick questions

    • What's recorded on my credit report?

      All lenders use at least one agency when assessing your file. This data comes from five main sources:

      • Electoral roll information. This is publicly available and contains address and residence details.

      • Court records. County court judgments (CCJs) and bankruptcies indicate if you have a history of debt problems.

      • Search, address and linked data. This includes records of other lenders that have searched your file when you've applied for credit, addresses you're linked to or other people you have a financial association with.

      • Fraud data. If you've committed a fraud (or someone has stolen your identity and committed fraud) this will be held on your file under the CIFAS section.

      • Account data. Banks, building societies, utility companies and other organisations keep details of all your payments and transactions on credit/store cards, loans, mortgages, bank accounts, energy and mobile phone contracts.

        In addition, payday loan data is normally reported, and 'doorstep lenders' are legally obliged to share the data that they hold on you. Increasingly, buy now, pay later usage is also being reported to the agencies.

        Credit reference agencies will usually know:


        • How much you owe
        • How long you've had the relationship for
        • A record of the last 12 months' payments
        • The final outcome and date of any closed financial accounts
        • Any defaults or county court judgments in the last six years
        • Whether you're bankrupt or in a formal debt relief plan
    • What's not recorded on my credit report?

      There are many myths about what information is held on credit files. Don't be fooled, though. They hold an enormous amount of financial data, but there's lots they don't know about you.

      The following things are NOT listed on your report:

      • Child Support Agency payments
      • Council tax arrears
      • Race, religion, colour, medical history or criminal record
      • Information on relatives (unless you've a joint financial product with them)
      • Parking or driving fines
      • Salary
      • Savings accounts
      • Student loans (unless taken out pre-1998).
      • Old defaults or missed payments (from six+ years ago)
  3. Can you borrow the amount you need?

    Lenders used to multiply your main income by up to five times to work out your maximum remortgage size. Now it's a lot more complicated as the lender has to be sure you can afford the repayments, and proving this has become harder since the cost-of-living crisis.

    To estimate how much you might be able to borrow, have a read of our How much can I borrow? guide – though see it only as a rough guide as that figure will come down the more committed expenses and debts you have.

    Each lender has a different formula when it calculates how much it'll lend you, but in brief:

    • The lender will add up your basic salary and a proportion of other types of income. This will normally include any bonuses, commission, benefits and second jobs.

    • It will then look at your debts and outgoings. For example debt repayments, maintenance payments, school fees, utilities, food shopping etc to work out your disposable income. Your disposable income needs to not only cover the new mortgage payment, but cover the mortgage payment if the rate was to rise. This is to build in a cushion for any rate rises. The lender may then reduce the amount it's willing to lend you to make sure you could afford the mortgage.
  4. Pick your remortgage date carefully to avoid fees

    Many mortgages have an early repayment charge for the initial incentive period. If you remortgage during this period, you'll trigger the charge and it's usually thousands of pounds (the equivalent of up to 5% on the outstanding mortgage balance).

    Check if yours has one. If it doesn't, you're free to remortgage at any time.

    If it does, and you don't want to pay the charge, remortgage for the next working day after your current mortgage ends and you're free from penalties.

    If that's not for a while, and you have reason to remortgage other than reaching the end of your current deal, find out how much the charge is. This way, you can work out if it's financially viable ditching your old deal. For more on the costs of remortgaging see our How much will remortgaging cost? guide.

  5. Get the exact figure you still owe on your mortgage so you don't end up with a shortfall

    Don't just guess. Contact your lender and ask "How much would I need to pay to clear the mortgage on, for example, 1 December?"

    Giving the date means the lender should take into account any repayments you are due to make between now and then (so tell it if you plan any overpayments). This will give you an exact figure of the amount you'll need to borrow when remortgaging. Don't rely on a rough estimate of your own as it could mean you end up with a shortfall or taking a pricier remortgage than you needed to.

    You should also ask:

    • Does that include an early repayment charge? If so, how much and on what date could I repay the mortgage without a charge?

    • Does that include any other fees, such as an admin fee? This is sometimes called an 'exit fee' or 'deeds release fee'? If so, how much is it?

    The lender should only charge you these fees if you were told about it when you first took out the mortgage. It would need to be on the offer document and the Key Facts Illustration. For more on remortgaging fees see our How much will remortgaging cost? guide.

  6. Self-employed? You'll have more hoops to jump through...

    If you're self-employed or would struggle to prove your long-term income – perhaps you've worked abroad or you are on a temporary contract – then getting a remortgage deal is tough.

    You'll need cast-iron proof of your income. Be prepared to provide up-to-date evidence to show how your business is faring. You'll also need to show:

    • Business accounts. You need to show preferably three years of accounts – though two is normally enough – usually signed off by a chartered accountant. Or...

    • Tax returns. If you can't show business accounts then two or three years' tax returns are the next best option.

    You'll be assessed on net profits, not turnover. If this is likely to be complex, using a mortgage broker could help as they'll know which lenders require what evidence. 

    While this can work for those in established businesses, it could mean that if you've become self employed since getting your last mortgage (particularly if it's a recent change), you simply won't be able to remortgage.

    For more detailed information on getting a mortgage (or remortgaging) if you're self-employed, have a read of our Self-employed mortgages guide.

  7. Estimate your property's value

    Before you can start to look at remortgage rates, you need to get a view on what your property is worth. It does need to be realistic as when you apply for a mortgage the lender will instruct an independent valuer to confirm the figure.

    Don't just a pluck a figure out of the air. Do some research – use our Free house price valuations guide to help.

  8. Now calculate how much of your home you own (and your loan-to-value)

    Once you've figured out how much your property might be worth now, you'll be able to calculate what proportion of that value you still owe on your mortgage and what proportion you've built up in equity. The ratio between these two is known as loan-to-value (LTV), something that'll impact what mortgage rate you could get.

    It's easy to get this figure: just divide the amount you still owe on your mortgage by your home's current value. Times the figure you get by 100, and that's your LTV as a percentage. So, if you owe £225,000 on a £300,000 house, that's a 75% LTV.

    Bear in mind that your LTV ratio now might be significantly different from when you got a mortgage the last time. If your property's gone up in price, it's likely you'll have dropped an LTV band or two. If it's now worth less than it was, you may be looking at a higher LTV band.

    LTV is important. The more equity you have in your property (the amount you own debt free) then the lower your LTV, and the lower your LTV then the lower an interest rate you'll be be able to get when remortgaging.

    Of course, you can remortgage to release equity if you need access to cash (say for home renovation), which would mean borrowing more than you currently owe on your property. But this is risky as you'll end up paying more each month and / or paying the debt off for longer. 

  9. Try to drop an LTV band – it'll make your mortgage cheaper

    If you still owe more than 60% of your home's value on a mortgage, the more you can do to drop an LTV band, the cheaper your remortgage will be. The main bands where interest rates really drop are at 90%, 80%, 75% and 60% LTV.

    There are two things you can do to get into a lower LTV band. You could:

    • Borrow less. Putting some of your own money in at the point of remortgaging is well worth doing if you're really close to the next band.

    • Try to get a higher valuation figure. How much more would your property need to value at to push you down another band? An extra £1,000 in value could make all the difference.

      So how can you get a better valuation? This is more art than science, it might work for you, or it might not. But if you don't ask, you don't get, so it's worth doing a little bit of legwork.

    • Set the valuer's expectation high. Always put the top valuation you think the property could achieve on your application.

    • Take a good look at your home. Does it look tidy and well cared for? Maybe get a particularly house proud friend to take a look as it's amazing what you don't notice when you see the place everyday.

    • Be at the valuation (if it's actually in-person). This might not be an option as the valuer could just look at the exterior so you won't be given an appointment time. Other valuers rely on databases and the internet rather than actually attending the property.

    • Give the valuer comparisons. Tell the valuer about similar properties to yours that sold for big money. Valuers rely on these 'comparisons' to justify their valuation. Properties that have sold will carry more weight than properties that are advertised, or under offer.

    A word of warning here. Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. You need to be ready for the valuer not agreeing with your figure.

    If this happens and it pushes you into a different LTV band, you might find that the lender you've applied to might not offer the best rate for your new LTV. This means you might be better off applying to another lender. But weigh up the costs of any delays or any fees you've paid upfront before jumping ship.

  10. Sort out your finances & get remortgage ready

    It's all very well having a perfect credit record, but if your finances are all over the shop, your mortgage lender's going to want to know why.

    There are a few things you should and shouldn't be doing in the weeks and months before you apply for a remortgage deal:

    • Don't apply for credit just before a mortgage.
    • Avoid erratic or heavy spending in the weeks before you apply.
    • Stay out of your overdraft.

    Lenders like to see that you're managing your money well, and – more importantly – that you have enough cash to repay them each month. Buying large items and dipping in and out of your overdraft won't mark you as a reliable borrower.

  11. Sort your paperwork to speed up the process

    Remember all the paperwork and evidence you had to get together when you applied for your last mortgage? Yep, you've got to produce it all again when remortgaging...

    Prepare these a few weeks in advance, as your new lender may want to see any, or all of:

    • Your last three months' bank statements
    • Your last three months' pay slips
    • Your last three years' accounts/tax returns (if self-employed)
    • Proof of bonuses/commission
    • Your latest P60 tax form (showing income and tax paid from each tax year)
    • ID documents (usually a passport)
    • Proof of address (for example, utility bills or credit card bills)

    Getting the paperwork the lender needs sent in one batch can speed up the process. It also reduces the chances of your application being reviewed by more people.

  12. Rejected? Throwing yourself at the next lender's feet will only make it worse

    If you're rejected for a remortgage – FREEZE! Don't automatically apply again with a different lender. Too many applications will mess up your credit score, so don't do it. Instead, the first thing to do is to check your credit file again. Could you have missed something?

    At all costs, avoid the rejection spiral. The nightmare example works like this:

    • You apply for a remortgage, but...
    • You get rejected (sometimes falsely, due to an error), so...
    • You apply elsewhere, and...
    • You get rejected again.

    This continues, until finally you check your files and get the error corrected. So...

    • You apply again, but...
    • You're rejected because of recent 'searches'.

    If you're rejected once, immediately go to the top of this guide and follow the steps we've set out, otherwise you may mess up your score as more applications mean more searches, which will compound the problem.

    If you haven't missed anything and your credit report's still looking good, it could just be that the lender you applied to had its own reason for turning you down. It's worth asking the lender.

    It should indicate to you the main reason you were turned down – and will tell you if that was the credit check. For more information read our Credit scores guide.

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